Jacob schoenhof



lilniitran Sfrarias Tlinerinistr @risica JACOB S ylAIOENl-IOF, OF NFV YORK, N. Y.

PANNlER.

SPECFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 308,996, dated December 9, 185%.

.\i ipli(:1iion filed December i4. 1883.

To @ZZ whom it may concer/L:

Be it known that I, J Aeon Sci-remuer, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city, county, andState of New York, have invented certain Improvements in Panniers, of which the following is a specification.

In my Patent No. 257,769, 0ranted May 9, 1332, I have shown a pannierV or skirt consisting of a body fabric (the back breadth ofthe skirt) with a series of spring-distended rufiics attached to it, one below another, and extending from the waist down to the bottoni of the skirt. This construction of pannicr is found to be liable to the lobjection that the upper ruf fle has, or the two or three upper ruffles have, to sustain almost the entire weight of the dress, while the lower ruffles are almost free from pressure, the result being that the upper ruffles are liable to soon become flattened out of shape and unable to properly fill out and uphold the dress.

My present invention constitutes an iniprovement upon that pannier, its object being to overcome this objection. This result l attain by omitting from the pannier the upper ruffle or ruflies,which are subject to this strain, and replacing them by a bust-le which is formed of a single ruffle stiffened by a nu1n-V ber of horizontal distending-springs arranged 'insuch manner that the bustle is rigid when subject to downward strains, but collapses on being pressed upward.

Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings is a rear elevation of thepannier and bustle, and Fig. 2 is a side elevation thereof. Fig. is a horizont-al section on the line 3 3 in Fig. 2. Fig. t is'an enlarged fragmentary view showing the method of construction. Fig. 5 isa fragmentary side elevation of the bustle and part of the pannier.

A is the pannier proper, and B the bustle portion of the same, the two, however, being one construction and. forming my improved pannier.

Gis the skirt worn beneath the dress. The pannier may be sewed to this skirt, as shown in Fig. 2, or buttoned to it, as shown in Fig. 5; or the two may be secured together in any manner, either permanently or removably.

The pannier A- consists, essentially, of a body fabric, d, and aseries of spring-distended ruffies, b b, arranged successively one beneath behind.

(Mode-l.)

another. .It also requires a lacing device, m, as shown in Fig. 3, to draw the ends of the distending-springs c c together and bow out the pannier to the desired extent.

lThe construction of the ruffles b b and their distending-springs c c is preferably the same as shown in my Patent No. 273,165, dated February 27, 1883, and requires no particular description here. The body fabric a. may be the back breadth of the skirt C, and the lacing device m be arranged within the skirt; or the wings of the lacing device may constitute the back breadth of the skirt and the fabric c be exterior thereto; or both may be exterior to and independent of the skirt. The body fabric should extend from the waistband d downward, as shown, its upper portion,where it passes beneath the bustle B, being plain or unprovided with rufi'les b Z).

Thcbnstle B consists of a fabric, e, distcnded by a series of parallel horizontal springs, ff. lt forms in effect one very deep ruffle similar to the ru'llles Z) 2) but stiffened by several springs one above another, instead of by only one spring at its bottom. The ends of these Vsprings are preferably connected in similar manner to that shown in my said Patent No. 273,165, the end of the spring being secured by a clip, h,to the fabric e at a little distance from the point where this fabric is attached to the body fabric or skirt, as clearly represented in Fig. 4i, thus leaving a flexible portion, i, of fabric intervening. These end fastenings are covered by a strip, j, seamcd at one edge and fastened by clips L at the other. A strip or tape, g, is attached to the bottom spring of the bustle and extends down the back of the pannier, being fastened to each spring c, and its lower end being carried forward, as shown in Fig. 2, and fastened to a spring, c, in the bottom of the body fabric a.

The bustle is so stiffcned by its several springs that it is capable of sustaining the weight ofthe dress without losing shape, leaving the rnfiles below only to hold out the dress When the wearer sits down, the

bustle may collapse by its springs folding together, this capabilityv being due to the absence of the vertical or diagonal bracingsprings customarily used in bristles, which render them rigid and prevent their collaps` ing. When the wearer rises, the tape g, bc-

IOC

ing pulled downward by the pannier, on which the weight of the dress falls, draws the bustle down again to its proper shape.

By constructing a pannier in the manner described-that is to say, with its upper portion having a broad rue in the nature oi' a collapsible bristle adapted to resist a considerable downward strain, but capable of collapsing readily under a pressure from below-I provide a proper support for the dress, and at the same time avoid any discomfort to the wearer.

I am aware that bustles having only horizontal and no diagonal springs have been used, and I do not claim this.

My pannier is an entirety, and the bustle portion B forms an integral part of the same. This bustle portion B may be attached by any of the well-known methods of securing fabrics together or securing one garment to another.

c I do not claim in this application any of the features shown in my application for patent, No. 93,296, liled April 28, 1883.

I claim as my invention- A pannier comprising a body fabric, a, a series ot' narrow spring-distended ruftles, b b, at its lower part7 a broad spring-distended collapsible ruffle or bristle portion, B, at its top, containing a series of parallel horizontal springs, ff, and a eXible strip, g, connected with the lower edge of the bustle portion B and with the several rufles b b, substantially as set forth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing 35 witnesses.

` JACOB SCI-IOENHOF. Witnesses:

HENRY CONNETT,

ARTHUR C. FRAsER. 

